Paul Gorman is…

Fabulousness: Rarely-seen footage of Kansai Yamamoto’s game-changing 1971 King’s Road catwalk show

Mar 19th, 2016

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“It was a spectacular coup de théâtre – Kansai’s models came on moving. They leapt, ran, whirled like dervishes, danced, flung out their arms so that the brilliant colours meshed and merged into a kaleidoscopic cartoon of colour. Kansai himself, black-clothed and masked, moved across the stage like a Samurai warrior, tearing off layers and layers of clothes, stripping down the beautiful, pyramidal outer garments, right down to the vests and body paint. Kansai’s clothes épatent les couturiers.”

Harpers & Queen, July 1971

As fuzzy as they are, the two precious video clips at the end of this post convey the game-changing nature of  Kansai Yamamoto’s theatrical introduction of avant-garde Japanese fashion design to these shores at the dawn of the 70s.

They also reveal the extent to which the late David Bowie subsequently drew on Yamamoto’s flamboyance and daring when presenting Ziggy Stardust on stage.

Several of the designs were worn by Bowie in performance during live promotion, in particular of the Aladdin Sane album, and he also adopted the sleight-of-hand layered costume reveals, the emphatic postures of the models and even the flame-red hair colouring as seen on the huge wig worn in the first excerpt below.

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‘They had the t-shirt off his back’: The 40th anniversary of the creation of the notorious Cowboys t-shirt + the obscenity debate it sparked in the pages of The Guardian

Jul 11th, 2015
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//Nicholas de Jongh’s front-page report, The Guardian, August 2, 1975//

No future098 copy

//Sex Original-labelled Cowboys t-shirt courtesy Hiroshi Fujiwara Collection//

This month – specifically July 26 – marks the 40th anniversary of the introduction for sale of Malcolm McLaren’s notorious Cowboys t-shirt in Sex, the revolutionary boutique he operated at 430 King’s Road with Vivienne Westwood.

The shirt’s status as the most provocative of all punk designs is enhanced by the fact that it made waves immediately: the same day the shirt went on sale, the first customer to wear it in public was arrested. Within 24 hours, the store itself was raided for indecency.

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48ers: Around the world with Fennica’s Drinking Jackets

May 30th, 2014
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//Beams staff in 48 jackets (unplanned , no memo) at a press preview for FW13 collections, Tokyo//

I love my calico Fennica 48 drinking jacket right down to it’s beer barrel buttons.

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//In my 48 last weekend at the Pablo Bronstein show, Herald Street, east London. Photo: Mrs Gorman//

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Interview on honeyee.com

Oct 18th, 2012

I’m interviewed by Andrew Bunney about the Tommy Roberts book on Japanese lifestyle/culture blog Honeyee – read here.

This is Andrew’s own honeyee blog.

Buy Mr Freedom – Tommy Roberts: British Design Hero here.

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On The Shelf with Värttinä

May 30th, 2011

Värttinä ON THE SHELF from ON THE SHELF on Vimeo.

My friend Yuki mentioned this to me; as Rogerio introduces Finnish vocal trio Värttinä on his online TV show On The Shelf, spot the copy of The Look on conspicuous display behind him.

But Värttinä are the reason I’m posting this bewitching acapella performance.

On The Shelf TV – broadcast from Bar Trench in Shibuya – has been up and running for a couple of months. See more here.

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