//Nicholas de Jongh’s front-page report, The Guardian, August 2, 1975//

//Sex Original-labelled Cowboys t-shirt courtesy Hiroshi Fujiwara Collection//

This month – specifically July 26 – marks the 40th anniversary of the introduction for sale of Malcolm McLaren’s notorious Cowboys t-shirt in Sex, the revolutionary boutique he operated at 430 King’s Road with Vivienne Westwood.

The shirt’s status as the most provocative of all punk designs is enhanced by the fact that it made waves immediately: the same day the shirt went on sale, the first customer to wear it in public was arrested. Within 24 hours, the store itself was raided for indecency.

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Tags: Alan Jones, Cowboys t-shirt, David "Piggy" Worth, Dr Colin Phipps, Glen Matlock, Hiroshi Fujiwara, John Lydon, Paul Cook, Roy Jenkins, Steve Jones, The Roebuck, Vagrancy Act 1924, Vivienne Westwood

//Jack Henry Moore (right) outside the Melkweg, Amsterdam with fellow film-makers Kit Galloway and Dave Jones, early 70s. Photo: The Generalist/The Videoheads//

Jack Henry Moore – who has died aged 73 – was one of the unpindownables of the counterculture in the 60s and 70s.

Known principally as a pioneering video film-maker and sound recordist (the archive he leaves behind is estimated to contain more than 70,000 hours of tape compiled over five decades), Moore was central to the establishment of many of the foundation stones of the underground in London and other European cities.

//With Lennon and Ono 1968. Photo: The Generalist/The Videoheads//

Moore joined fellow ex-pat American Jim Haynes in his theatrical experiments in Edinburgh in the mid-60s, where they staged productions by the likes of Lindsay Kemp. As in his native Oklahoma, Moore’s openness about his homosexuality necessitated a geographical shift, this time south to London.

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Tags: 14 Hour Technicolor Dream, Alexandra Palace, Chris Rowley, Drury Lane Arts Lab, International Times, Jack Henry Moore, Jim Haynes, John Lennon, Lindsay Kemp, Melkweg, Pink Floyd, Soft Machine, The Alchemical Wedding, The Deviants, The Nothing Man, Traverse Theatre Company, UFO, Yoko Ono

//From Vacant by Nils Stevenson, photo: Ray Stevenson//

If you are of a London gig-goer of a certain (getting on to be advanced) age you will remember “Jesus”, an enthusiastic audience member at many musical events in the capital from the 60s to the late 70s.

//Detail: Hynde, Rotten, Matlock and Jesus. Photo: Ray Stevenson//

Jesus was notable because a) he was personable and b) would often discard his clothes as he energetically idiot-danced stage-front. Jesus liked to frolic with abandon, more often than not exposing much, or even all of his rail-thin body.

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Tags: Bachman turner Overdrive, Brian nevill, Chuck Berry, Clive Jellett, Glastonbury Fayre, Jeff Dexter, Jesus, Johnny Rotten, Magic Michael, Mick Jagger, Mr Fish, Nils Stevenson, Patti Smith, Ray Stevenson, Rolling Stones, Sex Pistols, The Marque, The Nashville Rooms, The Rainbow, The Ramones, UFO, Vacant

Tomorrow (October 11) is the publication date of The Look Of London, my map collaboration with the pre-eminent modern guide-makers Herb Lester Associates.

“This map is a reminder that London, with all its individuality and character, is still very exciting,” writes Paul Smith in the foreword; he opened at 44 Floral Street WC2 in 1979.

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Tags: Andrew Spyropoulos, Bazaar, Bill Green, Burro, Cecil Gee, East End, Harry Bilgorri, Herb lester Associates, House Of Beauty & Culture, Jack Geach, John Michael, John Stephen, Kensington, Lew Rose, Louis Austin, Mary Quant, Michael and Gerlinde Kostiff, Moda3, Paul Smith, Peder Bernhardt, Shop, Soho, Soul II Soul, Vince Man's Shop, World

This morning I am participating in the V&A’s study day From Biba To Topshop with a presentation on the rise and fall of boutique culture in London’s King’s Road, starting with the opening of Bazaar by Archie Nairn, Alexander Plunket-Green and Mary Quant at 138a in 1955 and closing with the establishment of World’s End at 430 by Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood.

More details here.

Tags: Alexander Plunket Green, Archie Nairn, Bazaar, From BIba To Topshop, Malcolm McLaren, Mary Quant, V&A, Vivienne Westwood

Tomorrow I’m participating in the V&A study day on British design in the 60s with a talk about the development of graphics and poster art during the decade.

I’m speaking at 2.30pm – more details here.

Tags: V&A

Psychedelics – in the form of art, design, drugs, literature, music and the counter-culture – dominate the latest catalogue from BeatBooks.

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Tags: Alan Aldridge, Allen Ginsberg, BeatBooks, Bob Dylan, Gene Sculatti, Grateful Dead, Hapshash & The Coloured Coat, Isle Of Wight Festival, Jimi Hendrix, Ken Kesey, Merry Pranksters, Monterey Pop, Richard Alpert, Rick Griffin, Robert Crumb, Timothy Leary