Paul Gorman is…

Events + activities

CURRENT/FORTHCOMING

August 3-6, 2014
Let It Rock: The Look Of Music The Sound Of Fashion
Crystal Hall
Bella Center
Copenhagen

Exhibition

With Young Kim of the Malcolm McLaren Estate, I am curating the first exhibition to examine the late cultural iconoclast’s engagement with fashion in the 70s and early 80s.
Let it Rock is being staged from August 3-6 as part of the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair; creative directors Pierre Tzenkoff and Arnaud Vanraet have commissioned the show in conjunction with an exhibition entitled Industrial By Nature by streetwear guru Virgil Abloh.
Let It Rock will investigate McLaren’s deep roots in fashion (his mother + stepfather operated the womenswear brand Eve Edwards in the 50s and 60s and his grandfather was a master tailor’s cutter) and will also demonstrate how he drew on his art-school investigations into environments to become the progenitor of the pop up shop.
The show revolves around an installation dedicated to the shop from which it takes its title, complete with a recreation of the frontage in black corrugated iron and pink rock&roll signage McLaren designed when he opened the premises with Vivienne Westwood in 1971.

Details here.

October 2014
Roberta Bayley + Richard Hell: Road Trip
Journalism, GQ UK

A feature on the extraordinary 1980 US road trip commissioned by music entrepreneur Jake Riviera and undertaken by photographer Roberta Bayley and poet/musician/writer Richard Hell in a 1958 Cadillac Eldorado.

Details here.

Spring 2015

Derek Boshier: Rethink/Re-Entry
Thames & Hudson

I am the editor of this monograph of the eminent British artist Derek Boshier, providing a catalogue raisonné of his work from the mid-50s to the present day.

Boshier’s work and life has encompassed fellow RCA students Pauline Boty, Peter Blake and David Hockney, included album covers and stage-sets for David Bowie, a songbook for The Clash and been marked by an abiding political and social engagement across painting, film, photography, drawing, sculpture, print-making and teaching.

Remake/Re-Entry will include contributions from such authorities as critic and curator Guy Brett, Tate Britain head of displays Chris Stephens and Prof Lisa Tickner, visiting professor at the Courtauld Institute. I have contributed an essay on Boshier’s work with musicians and performers.

Spring 2015

British Design: Tradition and Modernity
Bloomsbury/V&A

I have contributed a chapter to this book which reflects on the V&A’s 2012 exhibition of the same name curated by Christopher Breward and Ghislaine Wood.

My essay outlines the achievements of the late Tommy Roberts, investigating the ways in which he applied considerable powers of invention, wit and style to some of London’s most remarkable retail sites: 60s psychedelic junk shop Kleptomania; early 70s Pop Art clothing and furniture boutique Mr Freedom; zany spin-off eaterie Mr Feed’Em; City Lights Studio, the first fashion outlet in London’s Covent Garden; 80s home-wares department store Practical Styling and, in the 90s and the 00s, furniture and object emporia TomTom and Two Columbia Road.

British Design also considers the theme of spaces and places introduced by Kingston University’s Penny Sparke and Fiona Fisher. Other chapters include Martin Wood’s overview of the contribution to  country house decoration by John Fowler in the post-war years, Fiona Anderson on textile designer and colour consultant Bernat Klein and Cheryl Buckley and Janine Barker’s study of the London design and craft shop Primavera which was established by the German émigré Henry Rothschild in 1946. Included is an interview by Abraham Thomas with Thomas Heatherwick about his design for the new London bus.

Autumn 2015
Legacy: The story of The Face
Thames & Hudson

I have started work on this ambitious project about one of the most important and influential publications of recent times.

Legacy: The story of The Face has the support and involvement of Nick Logan; I’m covering the story of the magazine from Logan’s launch with £3,500 savings in 1980 to the sale to Emap (now Bauer) in 1999. During this period The Face became the taste-making focus for excellence across many disciplines, spawning dozens of glossy “lifestyle” imitators around the world and paving the way for the digital delivery of visual culture in the 21st century.

Over the coming weeks and months I’ll be contacting and interviewing the individuals who made a difference at The Face as staff members and contributors, from art directors, designers, photographers and stylists to editors, critics and writers. It’s a testament to Logan’s stewardship that the majority continue to operate at the cutting edge of their chosen fields today.

EVENTS ARCHIVE

May 2014
David Parkinson: GQ Icon
Journalism, GQ UK

 

A seven-page feature on the life and work of the late fashion photographer David Parkinson, illustrated with his documentation of important 70s retail spaces, portraiture of such individuals as Malcolm McLaren, Trevor Myles and Vivienne Westwood and fashion shoots from Paul Raymond’s Club International.

 

Details here.

 

March 30, 2014

In conversation with Toby Amies
The Man Whose Mind Exploded
BFI London

An in conversation with film director Toby Amies after a screening of  The Man Whose Mind Exploded, Amies’ documentary of the life of the extraordinary Drako Zarharzar.

Tickets here.

The Man Whose Mind Exploded is being screened as part of BFI Flare, the London LGBT Film Festival.

October 19 – February 2, 2014
Glam! The Performance Of Style
Exhibition, Lentos Kunstmuseum, Linz, Austria

I advised curator Darren Pih on components for this, the first in-depth exploration of glam style and sensibility, examining its relationship to painting, sculpture, film, performance and installation art in Britain, across Europe and in North America. I also contributed several exhibits from my archive and sourced others for the show which travelled from the UK’s Tate Liverpool and the Schirn Kunsthalle in Frankfurt, Germany.

Details here.

September 5 – November 22, 2013
Punk at Showstudio
Motcomb Street London SW1, UK

Photographer Nick Knight’s exhibition sprang from his involvement in Punk: Chaos To Couture at the Metropolitan Museum Of Art in New York earlier this year. I contributed exhibits from my archive, including rare source material for the t-shirts designed by Malcolm McLaren and sold at Sex, the shop he operated with Vivienne Westwood, as well as photography and other items.

Details here.

September 5 – October 13
Carnaby Echoes by Lucy Harrison
London W1, UK

I acted as a consultant to the artist Lucy Harrison – whose location-related work has previously concentrated on such places as Canvey Island and the Olympic Park – on her project investigating music-related sites in the area around Carnaby Street in central London. This will include, but not focus purely on, the 60s and will cover eras since the establishment of Murray’s Club in 1913 and encourage engagement with some of the addresses which make this locale so special. I connected Lucy to such individuals as George O’Dowd, who worked at the 80s boutiques Street Theatre and The Foundry, as well as The Foundry designer Sue Clowes and others. A companion exhibition opens at 20 Foubert’s Place on September 5; I contributed a number of exhibits.

Details here.

June 14 – September 22 2013
Glam! The Performance Of Style
Exhibition, Schirn Kunsthalle, Frankfurt, Germany

I advised curator Darren Pih on components for this, the first in-depth exploration glam style and sensibility, examining its relationship to painting, sculpture, film, performance and installation art in Britain, across Europe and in North America. I also contributed several exhibits from my archive and sourced others or the show which travelled from the UK’s Tate Liverpool.

Read more.

February 8 – May 12 2013
Glam! The Performance Of Style
Exhbition, Tate, Liverpool, UK

I advised Tate Liverpool’s exhibitions and displays curator Darren Pih on components for this, the first exhibition to explore glam style and sensibility in-depth, examining its relationship to painting, sculpture, film, performance and installation art in Britain, across Europe and in North America. I also contributed several exhibits from my archive and sourced others.

The exhibition sets out to reveal the genealogy of glam.  Emphasis falls on performance, in particular ideas of exaggerated identity. Artists’ use of materials such as vinyl and glitter is considered to mirror the conventions of glam.

Read more.

April 27, 2013
Fashion: David Bowie and his style collaborators
V&A Museum, London, UK

As part of the V&A’s David Bowie Weekender I presented a paper on Bowie’s position as pop’s greatest visual manipulator, using exclusive research, interview material, images and footage to show how he has attained this status with particular reference to clothing designers Freddie Burretti, Ola Hudson, Natasha Korniloff, Derek Morton and Kansai Yamamoto.

April 9, 2013
Bowie Style: In conversation with Boy George
V&A Museum, London, UK

George O’Dowd and I were in conversation about the visual identities assumed over the years by David Bowie – the subject of the giant retrospective David Bowie Is at the V&A – and the influence he has wielded over fashion and personal style around the world and in O’Dowd’s personal experience.

October 17, 2012
Pop! Design Study Day
Fashion + Pop Music, Fashion + Textile Museum, London SE1 3XF

I hosted the opening session of this study day with a discussion about the interplay between fashion and popular music with designer Antony Price.

Details here.

June 23-October 7, 2012
Derek Boshier: David Bowie & The Clash
Exhibition, Pallant House, Chichester, Sussex, UK

As well as holding an ‘in-conversation’ event with the eminent British artist about his engagement with popular music when the show opened, I contributed an example of his CLASH 2nd Songbook from my archive to the exhibition.

Exhibition details here.

October 2012
The Look Of London 1950-2000
Map with Herb Lester Associates

I compiled this map of London’s significant addresses in music + fashion in collaboration with Herb Lester Associates. With 120-plus locations, this is the definitive guide to the golden age of London’s retail scene, with each address revealing style secrets and fashion adventures.

Read more about Herb Lester’s activities here.

September 21 2012
Fashion Blogging
Lecture, Richmond University, London, UK

Richmond’s professor of communications Fred Vermorel invited me to talk to his fashion + mass media students about the history of fashion blogging and the pre-eminent exponents of this increasingly significant activity.

August 2012
King’s Road Music & Fashion Trail
Films for Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea

This trail is based on a series of downloadable films I have made about the important addresses in one of the most famous thoroughfares in the world.

The first five three-minute documentaries celebrate the historical and cultural significance of key locations in the King’s Road, by presenting the histories of the buildings which once housed such stores as the world’s first boutique – Mary Quant’s shop Bazaar – as well as Dandie Fashions, Granny Takes A Trip, Johnson’s The Modern Outfitter and Paradise Garage.

Read more.

March 31 – August 12 2012
British Design: Innovation In The Modern Age 1948-2012
Exhibition, V&A, London, UK

The V&A’s showcase of 60 years of British design excellence covered product design, fashion and textiles, furniture, ceramics and glass, graphics, photography, architecture, fine art and sculpture. I advised on Barney Bubbles exhibit purchases for the permanent collection and also on existing archive material incorporated into the show.

Read more.

June 30 2012
From Biba to Topshop: Post-War British Shops and Shopping
Lecture, Victoria & Albert Museum, London UK

I investigated the independent boutique boom from the late 50s to the late 80s with particular reference to Chelsea and in particular the significant series of retail businesses which have operated from number 430 King’s Road. The other participants included designer Steven Thomas, who was responsible for the visual identity and branding of the ‘Big Biba’ shop in Kensington in the early 70s.

Details here.

June 28, 2012
In conversation with Derek Boshier
Talk, Pallant House, Chichester, Sussex, UK

To coincide with the opening of his exhibition David Bowie & The Clash, I was in conversation with the eminent British artist about his engagement with popular music, from sketches of Bill Haley and incorporation of Buddy Holly into his Pop paintings of the 60s through his astonishing 2nd Clash Songbook – commissioned by former students Joe Strummer and the group’s then manager Caroline Coon – and his work with David Bowie (the covers of Lodger and Let’s Dance and stage sets) in the 70s to lesser known pieces for the Pretty Things and Peter Tosh.

Exhibition details here.

June 16 2012
Graphic art in the 60s: From Pop To Psychedelia
Lecture, Victoria & Albert Museum, London UK
My presentation on 60s graphics during this Designing the Decades event covered poster art and print advertising. The other participants were historians David Heathcote and Christine Lalumia and Linda Watson of Northumbria University.

Details here.

May 26 – June 10, 2012
Barney Bubbles: The Past, The Present & The Possible
Exhibition, Les Subsistances, Chaumont, France

I curated this Barney Bubbles exhibition as part of the group show White Noise: When graphics bring the noise for Chaumont’s 23rd International Graphics & Posters festival. This was created by artist/curator Sophie Demay and Étienne Hervy, Chaumont artistic director. White Noise also incorporated the work of contemporary artists and graphic designers including Laurent Fétis, James Goggin and Shoboshobo.

Details here.

May 11 2012
Tommy Roberts: From Kleptomania to Two Columbia Road
Lecture, Victoria & Albert Museum, London UK

My presentation during the Spaces & Places conference made particular reference to research into the career and achievements of Tommy Roberts. Other participants included historian David Kynaston, who gave the keynote talk, and Thomas Heatherwick.

Details here.

March 13 – 18 2012
The Look + Barney Bubbles, SXSW
Installation, Rainey Street, Austin TX, US

I contributed room installations to Ray Ban’s “Legendary Visions” house for the run of the annual music shindig South By South West. The chaotic collages played to the disposability of the concept: the houses were consigned for demolition after SXSW. The installations included giant blow ups of the Big Figures of The Look, the Barney Bubbles light show I commissioned from Kate Moross as well as soundtracks, other moving images and vinyl-only DJ sets. Other participants included music designers Hipgnosis and rock photographer Henry Diltz.

January 25 – March 3 2012
Lloyd Johnson: The Modern Outfitter
Exhibition, Chelsea Space, London UK

I curated this exhibition celebrating the career of Lloyd Johnson, a significant figure in the development of post-war clothing design and visual culture, from his beginnings working for West End retailer Cecil Gee and running Cockell & Johnson in Kensington Market in the 60s to the operation of internationally recognised labels and boutiques from the 70s to 2000.

Read more.

March 1 2012
The Life & Work Of Barney Bubbles
Lecture, Arts Centre Vooruit, Ghent, Belgium.

Presentation of a paper on the practices and legacy of the subject of my book Reasons To Be Cheerful at Bold Italic, the annual graphic design conference. Bold Italic is organised by graphics authority Michaël Bussaer of Ghent’s St-Lucas Institute for Higher Education in the Arts; the other participants were practitioners Bart De Baets & Sandra Kassenaar (Netherlands), Urs Lehni (Switzerland; Alexander Negrelli (Germany) and James Langdon (UK).

Read more.

February 20 2012
Fashion Blogging
Lecture, Richmond University, London, UK

Richmond’s professor of communications Fred Vermorel invited me to talk to his fashion + mass media students about the history of fashion blogging and the pre-eminent exponents of this increasingly significant activity.

Feb 18 2011
In conversation with Lloyd Johnson
Talk, Chelsea Arts Club, London, UK

As part of the series of Saturday lunches at London’s Chelsea Arts Club, Johnson and I talked about the exhibition The Modern Outfitter, Johnson’s involvement in music and fashion and the heyday of the King’s Road as a haven for all manner of cultural activities.

Jan 18 2012
In conversation with Derek Boshier
Discussion/q&a, Lecture Theatre, Chelsea College Of Art & Design, London UK

Following a talk by the eminent British artist about his practice and a screening of his 1973 film Reel, Boshier and I discussed his engagement with popular culture – designing the shopfront for 60s boutique Palisades, a songbook for The Clash, the cover of David Bowie’s 1979 album Lodger and working with Barney Bubbles – and the ways in which contemporary events inform his work.

Read more.

Jan 16 2012
You’re Gonna Wake Up One Morning And Know Which Side Of The Bed You’ve Been Lying On!
Lecture, St Martin’s College Of Art, London UK

A talk to foundation course students about the significance of the polemical t-shirt of this title designed and compiled by Malcolm McLaren, Bernie Rhodes and others and sold in SEX at 430 King’s Road in 1974.

Read more.

Sept 24 2011 – Jan 15 2012
Postmodernism: Style and Subversion 1970-1990
Exhibition, V&A Museum, London UK

I contributed exhibits from the Barney Bubbles archive and consulted on content to this, the first comprehensive retrospective of the Postmodern movement incorporating architecture, graphic design, fashion, art and music. Read more.

Oct 15 2011
Designing The Decades: The 1980s
Lecture, Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK

Presentation on the contribution made to visual culture by Barney Bubbles and Tommy Roberts in the 80s at this V&A study day with fashion writer Lucy Norris, design historian Dr Catharine Rossi, broadcaster David Heathcote and graphic designer Trevor Johnson.

Oct 13 2011
British Visual Culture – a recent history
Lecture, University Of Brighton, Sussex, UK

Course leader Paul Burgess invited me to talk on various aspects of British visual culture from the post-war period to the present day, in the context of my work on Barney Bubbles, The Look, Tommy Roberts and the wider spheres of art, design, fashion and music.

Oct 12 2011
Fashion Blogging
Lecture, Richmond University, London, UK

Richmond’s professor of communications Fred Vermorel invited me to talk to his fashion + mass media students about the history of fashion blogging and the pre-eminent exponents of this increasingly significant activity.

Sept 21 2011 – Sept 27 2011
Mindful Of Art
Group exhibition/charity auction, Old Vic Tunnels, South Bank, London, UK

Artist Stuart Semple included my Barney Bubbles mini-exhibit within his exhibition and arts festival in aid of the UK’s mental health charity MIND. Other contributors include Jake & Dinos Chapman, Mat Collishaw, Sarah Lucas, Kate Moross, Ellie Rees and Seana Gavina.

Read more

Sept 20 – Oct 22 2011
Ideal Home
Exhibition, Chelsea Space, Chelsea College Of Art & Design, London, UK

I contributed exhibits from my design archive to this group show which included work by a variety of artists and designers, including Patrick Caulfield, Damien Hirst, Jasper Johns, Bruce Maclean, Bob & Roberta Smith and Richard Wentworth.

Read more

Sept 15 2011
Subcultures, Popular Music and Social Change
Conference, The Graduate Centre, London Metropolitan University, London, UK

Contribution to The Meaning Of Style round-table discussion with author Richard Barnes, artist/writer Caroline Coon and singer/author Pauline Black. Read more.

Jul 30 2011- Sep 28 2011
Snap, Crackle and Pop: British Pop Art
Exhibition, Lightbox Gallery, Woking, Surrey, UK

Curated by Michael Regan and Katherine Higgins, Snap, Crackle and Pop combined work by the UK’s leading pop artists with objects from the 60s and 70s to illustrate the ways in which art and popular culture united for the first time. I contributed exhibits from the Barney Bubbles and Mr Freedom archives and consulted on fashion elements of the show.

Read more.

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